Cuba, how I love thee... (Part 2)

Our travels were not limited to the Havana region.  Our group set off for Las Terrazzas, a nature reserve in the Artemiso Province that was declared a designated bioreserve by UNESCO in 1984.  Prior to that, Cuba had, on its own, begun a reforestation effort there in 1968.  The region contains some of Cuba's earliest coffee plantations, now home only to the undergrowth that reclaims it.  One mountaintop plantation and processing center is kept neat and tidy for tourists to visit and learn about the early coffee growing industry and the people who worked the site.

Las Terrazzas is a place out of another time.  Of course, it is intended to be, yet, I felt entirely transported.  I was in a world when Cuba was a cross-roads for many European countries trading with the west indies, attracting people from all corners of the world.  Moving from the quiet, rare air of the plantation that bears the same name, we arrived in the greenest, lushest, valley community of Las Terrazzas.  Before we left that day, we had the fortune to visit a community clinic; a unique open air coffee house and bar; and the art studio of Lester Campa.  Like virtually all the artists we met in Cuba, Lester works in various media, though his preferred media seemed to be paint on canvas, pencil, pen and ink, and other two-dimensional media.

Lester allowed me one quick photo of his work space and the lovely view he enjoys.  He did not prefer to be photographed
--something I did not encounter often among the friendly people of Cuba.

Cuba is so rich in its own history.  I felt like a sponge, trying to soak up everything I learned; every experience I enjoyed, wherever we went.  We most certainly were blessed with a friendly, cohesive, group of open-minded explorers as our travel companions.  Virtually all meals were family-style in each wonderful paladar house we dined.  If you'd like to learn more about the phenomenon of the secret restaurant homes of Cuba, follow this link.  What we learned immediately was that we would be treated and fed well at each home, and to expect the occasional surprise, as well as the standard fare of spanish rice, plantains, and usually a choice of meats that always included fish and chicken, and sometimes included beef, lobster, and pork.  The drinks were usually Coca-Cola, but they had 7Up, and of course wines and the best rum in the world if you were in the mood for a Cuba Libre.

Every place we visited, there ended up being dancing, often singing, and virtually everybody we met played a musical instrument.  I feel as though Cubans are born with music in their blood; in their souls.  I lost count of how many times we, as an entire group, were swept up in the dancing with the people where were were in the moment.  Young and old, male and female, everybody danced.

"We're stopping for a cold drink and a rest stop," our Cuban guide explained.  Thirty minutes later, we were all dancing, singing and sipping Cuba Libres  It was about 10 am.

Our visits included schools, from elementary through university.  Graduating high school is mandatory for Cuban children, college, if they can qualify, is paid for by working later.  Cuba has some advanced medical treatments, such as a cure for diabetes.  Many of their doctors leave to study and teach elsewhere in the world.  Many of their most talented musicians also leave to play in companies elsewhere.  Cuba does not jealously guard its human resources, I came to believe.

Some of our additional highlights included many visits to the art galleries of renowned Cuban artists--not all of whom are known to us, because Cuban interests and culture don't hop the pond to us readily.  I adored the art of the community of artists at La Lavanderia; an old warehouse that had been a commercial laundermat before shuttering and being offered by the Cuban Government to the bidder with the best proposal for its use.  (Yes, there is political commentary to be had there, and no, it stays there).

The Havana Art Market was an interesting warehouse type bazaar where one could find all genres of original art, much of it studied and well executed.  Cuba cultivates artists; musicians, dancers, writers, singers, and artists who render their vision in various media.  I loved it all.

One artist with a fair amount of notoriety is Jose' Fuster, who made his home, and then his neighborhood, over in his own fantastic eye.  While he may not be considered anything more than "naive" as an artist, he is also well-loved, and his home/gallery are a frequent stop for tourists from around the world.

Jose' Fuster's interior courtyard -- as all of his home and yard--is difficult to capture in a photograph.

The entry to Jose' Fuster's home, or "Fusterlandia" as the community has named it.

And speaking of around the world, there are many tourists enjoying Cuba from other countries.  We met mostly German tourists when we were there at the end of February and in early March.  Just... no Americans.  Except us.

(Continued in Part 3... )